Drafting Men's Pants Pattern

Drafting Men's Pants Pattern



Seam allowance is included . It is 1/4 " (0.6 cm)

Drafting the men's pants front pattern.

[Pic of pants front pattern draft.]

On a long piece of paper about ( outseam + ( (4 " or 10.4 cm) ) ) long and ( seat + ( (6 " or 15.6 cm) ) ) wide, draw a line down the middle.
Near the top, select a point and mark point 0 .
From 0 down to 1 is ( outseam - ( (1 " or 2.6 cm) ) ) .
From 1 up measure up inseam to 2 .
3 is midway between 1 and 2 ( ( inseam / 2 ) ).
4 from 3 is 2 " (5.2 cm) .
Square out from points 0 , 2 , 4 , and 1 .
5 from 2 is ( seat / 5.5 ) .
6 from 2 is ( seat / 12 )
7 from 2 is ( seat / 12 )
Square up from 6 to locate 8 on line 0
Square out from 7 to locate 9 on line 6
10 from 9 is 0.25 " (0.6 cm)
Draw line 8 - 10 .
11 from 10 is ( seat / 4 )
12 from 8 is ( ( waist / 4 ) + ( (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) ) )
13 and 14 from 4 is ( knee_width / 2 )
15 and 16 from 1 is ( cuff_width / 2 )
17 from 1 is ( cuff_depth ? ( ( 3 * cuff_depth ) - ( (0.25 " or 0.6 cm) ) ) : ( (2 " or 5.2 cm) ) ) (allowance for the cuff (if any) is included in this measurement).
Square out from 17 .
The waist line form 8 is squared by line 8 - 10 until it is about 0.25 " (0.6 cm) below line 8 - 12 . Then it curves gently into 12 .
The fly fall (front rise) follows the straight line 8 - 10 and then makes a shallow curve into 5 .
Through 11 the outseam is vertical from about 1 " (2.6 cm) above to 0.5 " (1.3 cm) below. Continue upward, curving into 12 .
Shape the leg, making the inseam and outseam vertical from the bottom to at least 2 " (5.2 cm) above 15 and 16 and identical to each other from the bottom to the knee. Above the knee the inseam is a natural continuation, waiting until almost the top to curve into 5 . The outseam also continues naturally above 14 , easing outward to meet the continuation downward from 11 .
Add notches (for assembly) at the following points:
  • 0 , 14 , 16 , 15 , and 13 .
  • In the outseam, 1.5 " (3.9 cm) below the waist edge, and again 6.25 " (16.25 cm) below that (for the front pockets).
  • In the fly fall about 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 2.5 " (6.5 cm) from the inseam: Put the zero end of the tape measure 3/8 " (.97 cm) below the waist edge and measure along the fly fall 1/4 " (0.6 cm) in from the pattern outline. Cut the fly notch at the nearest whole inch, and that will be the length of your pants zipper.




Drafting the pattern back guide .

[Pic of pattern back guide.]

The pattern back guide is used to determine the slope of the back pattern piece.
Draw horizontal lines 0 , 7 , and 2 the same distance apart as on the pattern front.
Near the right on line 2 mark point A .
B from A is ( ( seat / 4 ) + ( (2 " or 5.2 cm) ) )
Square up from A and B to locate C and D on line 0 .
E from B is ( ( waist / 4 ) + ( (1.5 " or 3.9 cm) ) )
The distance between E and A should be ( diff = ( ( ( seat / 4 ) + ( (2 " or 5.2 cm) ) ) - ( ( waist / 4 ) + ( (1.5 " or 3.9 cm) ) ) ) )
F from C is ( diff / 2 )
G from D is ( diff / 2 )
Draw line A - F and locate point X where it crosses the horizontal line 7 .
H from F is 4.5 " (11.7 cm)
From H square down 2.5 " (6.5 cm) to locate J .
K and L are each 1/4 " (0.6 cm) from H .
Draw lines J - K and J - L (back dart).
Draw line B - G and extend it 1/8 " (0.3 cm) to M .
From M square out to 1/8 " (0.3 cm) below the horizontal line 0 ; then curve gradually into K .
From L to F draw a curve that dips 1/8 " (0.3 cm) below the straight line.
Extend the straight lines M - B and F - A to several inches below line A - B , and cut out the pattern back guide along the curved lines M - K and L - F .
Cut out the vee for the back dart, all the way to J .




Drafting the pants back pattern.

[Pic of pants back pattern draft.]

For the back pattern, use a piece of paper about ( outseam + ( (12 " or 31.2 cm) ) ) long and ( seat + ( (12 " or 31.2 cm) ) ) wide, draw a line down the middle.
Lay the front pattern piece on the paper, lining up the 0 - 1 line of the front with the line on the paper, and draw around it.
Indicate notches and points 10 and 11 . Take away the front piece and label points 5 , 13 , 14 , 15 , and 16 . Draw line 10 - 11 and extend it to the right.
18 from 11 is 2 " (5.2 cm)
Place point X on the pattern back guide on point 18 on the paper. Using the common point as a pivot, swing the guide up until side M - B touches point 10 on the paper.
Draw around the guide above 10 and 18 ( X ). Label M and F .
19 and 20 are 1/2 " (1.3 cm) from 13 and 14 .
21 and 22 are 1/2 " (1.3 cm) from 15 and 16 .
23 from 5 is ( ( seat / 24 ) + ( (3/8 " or 1 cm) ) ) , that is, half of the distance from 7 to 2 plus 3/8 " (1 cm) .
23 from 19 is the same as 5 from 13 .
The seat seam (back rise) follows the straight line M - 10 , becomes a shallow curve just outside the 10 - 5 curve of the front, and runs through 5 into 23 , finishing up straight for about the last 1 " (2.6 cm) .
From the bottom to the knee the inseam lies 1/2 " (1.3 cm) outside the front outline. Above the knee it continues naturally, doing most of its curving into 23 near the top.
The outseam too is 1/2 " (1.3 cm) outside the front outline from the bottom to just above the knee. Then it eases outward to pass through 18 and curve just outside the F - 18 line into F .
The bottom is in line with that of the front.
Cut out the pattern back, and cut knee and bottom notches.



NOTES:




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[ Updated: 12:08:02 EDT 2012/05/03 ]