Drafting Men's Single-Breasted Waistcoat Pattern
Measurements needed (all measurements are taken
with the person wearing shirt & vest):
- chest: taken at fullest part of chest.
- waist
- waist length: taken at the middle of back, from base of shirt collar down to waistline.
- front length: taken from the side of the neck where the shoulder seam runs into the neckline, over the chest, and down to the bottom of center front of the vest
- "Scale" is equal to 1/3 of chest plus 6 " (15.6 cm) : ( scale = ( ( chest / 3 ) + ( (6 " or 15.6 cm) ) ) )
Seam allowance is included. It is 3/8 " (1 cm)
From
O
(
back of neck ) draw line down ( scale / 2 ) to
1
From
O
draw line down
( waist_length + seam_allowance ) to
2
From
2
draw line right 1.0 " (2.6 cm) to
3
From
O
draw line down ( scale / 8 ) to
4
From
O
draw line right
( scale / 6 ) + (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) to
5
From
5
draw line up 1.0 " (2.6 cm) to
6
Shape
O
,
4
, past
1
,
3
, locating
A
on line
1
.
From
A
draw line right ( scale / 3 ) to
7
From
7
draw line right ( scale / 4 ) to
8
From
8
draw line right 2.25 " (5.85 cm) to
9
From
A
draw line right ( chest / 2 ) + (1.75 " or 4.55 cm) to
10
From
10
square down to locate
11
on line
2
.
From
7
move right 2 " (5.2 cm) to locate
12
Square from
4
and
12
to locate
13
14
and
15
are each 1/2 " (1.3 cm) above and below
13
From
9
move right ( scale / 6 ) + (1/2 " or 1.3 cm) to locate
16
From
16
draw line up ( scale / 2 ) - (1/2 " or 1.3 cm) to
17
From
14
move up line
14
-
6
3/4 " (2 cm) to
18
From
17
move left & down line
17
-
15
an amount equals to
6
-
18
to locate
19
From
19
move down 1/4 " (0.7 cm) to locate
20
.
From
9
draw line up 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to
21
From
8
move down 1/2 " (1.3 cm) to locate
22
From
22
square down to line
2
to locate
23
Measure the back neck and apply the full length and opening measurements from 17
[down]
to 24
plus 1.25 " (3.25 cm) for seams and making up allowances.
[ I take this to mean that from
17
down to
24
equals the front length plus 1.25 " (3.25 cm) . aqn. ]
From
24
move left 1 " (2.6 cm) (or according to taste) to locate
25
Add 3/4 " (1.9 cm) to front edge at
26
and
27
.
From
3
move right ( waist / 2 ) + (1.75 " or 4.5 cm) to locate
28
From
23
move right by (
11
to
28
) / 2 to locate
29
From
23
move left by (
11
to
28
) / 2 to locate
30
From
29
move down 2.25 " (5.8 cm) to locate
31
From
30
move down 3 " (7.8 cm) to locate
32
From
3
move down 2.5 " (6.5 cm) to locate
33
From
31
move right 4 " (10.4 cm) along line
31
-
25
to locate
34
From
22
move down 3/8 " (1 cm) to locate
35
.
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[ Updated: 00:05:19 EDT 2014/06/06
]