Drafting The One-Piece Sleeve Sloper

Draw a line equal to the overarm or full length ( A1 ) measurement. Mark point A and B . From B on line A - B , measure off the underarm length measurement ( A2 ), and mark point C . Find the center of line B - C and mark point D. From D measure up 0.5 " (1.3 cm) (for all sizes), and mark point E . Point E will be the elbow level. Disregard point D . Draw lines at right angles to each of the points A , C , E , and B . On each side of point C , measure off ( A3 / 2 ) and mark points F and G . On each side of point E, measure off ( A3 / 2 ) - (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) and mark points H and I . (Line H - I is one inch shorter than line F - G .) Draw a line from points F to H, and from points G to I . Find the center of line E - I , and mark point J . From point B on the wrist line, measure off ( A4 / 2 ) and mark point K .

Extend line A - B through B . Place the square on the draft so that the long arm of the square rests on point J , the corner of the square touches the line extended through point B , and the short arm of the square rests on point K . Mark the corner of the square point L . The square must go through all three points at the same time. Draw lines from points K to L , and from L to J .

Find the center of line K - L and mark point M . Extend line K - L through point L . From point L on the extended line, measure off ( A4 / 4 ) and mark point N. Draw a line from points I to N . Draw a line from point M parallel to line B - K . Draw a line equal to ( A4 / 4 ) from point K to any place on the parallel line drawn from point M and mark point O . Draw a line from points H to O . From point F measure off one fourth the distance from F to C , and mark point P . From point G measure off one-half the distance from points F to point P and mark point Q . From point A measure off the same distance as from F to P and mark point R . From point A measure off the combined measurements of lines F - P and G - Q and mark point S . Draw a line from points R to P and from points S to Q . To obtain the correct shape of the sleeve cap, supplementary points may be added as follows: P - 1 is the same measurement as F - P . R - 2 is the same measurement as A - R . S - 3 is the same measurement as A - S . Q - 4 is the same measurement as G - Q .

How to shape the sleeve cap: Draw the sleeve cap as illustrated. The cap line is drawn 1/8 " (0.6 cm) outside of points 1 and 4 . Be sure the top of the cap is a smooth, round line. How to make the elbow darts: NOTE: The back underarm seam, line G - I - N , is longer than the front underarm seam, line F - H - O , because of the elbow bend. This surplus length is reduced by means of darts at the elbow (if desired), so that both seam lines will be of the same length. Subtract the measurement of the front underarm seam (line F - H - O ), from the back underarm seam (line G - I - N ), to get X . From I on line I - N, measure off ( X / 3 ) and mark point 5 . Draw a line from points J to 5 . From point I on line I - G , measure off 0.75 " (1.9 cm) and mark point 6 . From point 6 on line 6 - G , measure off ( X / 3 ) and mark point 7 . From point 7 draw a line parallel to and equal to line I - J , and mark point 8 . Draw a line from points 8 to 6 . From point 5 on line 5 - N , measure off 0.75 " (1.9 cm) and mark point 9 . From point 9 on line 9 - N , measure off ( X / 3 ) and mark point 10 . From pint J on line J - L , measure off the same distance as from points 8 to J , and mark point 11 . Draw lines from points 11 to 9 , and from points 11 to 10 . How to shape the wrist line: Draw a smoothly curved line from points 0 to M .

How to cut out the sleeve pattern: Cut out the sleeve pattern on lines O - H - F - A - G - I - N - L - M - O . Notch points A , L , and M , and the elbow darts. Line A - L is the straight grain line of the sleeve. NOTE: To fit correctly, the sleeve cap should measure 1.25 " (3.25 cm) to 1.5 " (3.9 cm) larger than the armscye of the bodice.

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[ Updated: 00:02:05 CST 2020/12/03 ]