Drafting Men's Dress Waistcoat Pattern
![[Pic of waistcoat pattern draft.]](drvest.gif)
Measurements needed (all measurements are taken with the person wearing shirt & vest):
- chest: taken at fullest part of chest.
- waist
- waist_length: taken at the middle of back, from base of shirt collar down to waistline.
- "Scale" is equal to 1/3 of chest plus 6 " (15.6 cm) ( scale = ( ( chest / 3 ) + ( (6 " or 15.6 cm) ) ) )
From O (back of neck) draw line down ( scale / 2 ) to 1
From O draw line down ( waist_length + seam_allowance ) to 2
From 2 draw line right 1.0 " (2.6 cm) to 3
From O draw line down ( scale / 8 ) to 4
From O draw line right ( scale / 6 ) + (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) to 5
From 5 draw line up 1.0 " (2.6 cm) to 6
Shape O , 4 , past 1 , 3 locating A on line 1 .
From A draw line right ( scale / 3 ) to 7
From 7 draw line right ( scale / 4 ) to 8
From 8 draw line right 2.25 " (5.85 cm) to 9
From A draw line right ( chest / 2 ) + (1.75 " or 4.55 cm) to 10
From 9 draw line right ( scale / 6 ) + (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) to 11
From 11 draw line up ( scale / 2 ) - (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) to 12
From 7 draw line right 2.0 " (5.2 cm) to 13
Square right from 4 , square up from 13 , meeting at 14
From 14 draw line up 0.5 " (1.3 cm) to 15
From 14 draw line down 0.5 " (1.3 cm) to 16
Shape shoulder seam from 6 to 15
From 15 draw line up 0.75 to 6 on line 6 - 15 to locate 17
Connect 12 to 16 forming shoulder line for front
From 12 draw line left & down line 12 - 16 to 18 :
12 - 18 (front shoulder seam) == 6 - 17 (back shoulder seam)
From 18 draw line down 0.25 " (0.6 cm) to 19
From 9 draw line up 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 20
Square down from 10 , square across from 2 , meeting at 21
Square down from 8 , meeting 2 - 21 at 22
From 8 draw line down 0.5 " (1.3 cm) to 23
From 23 draw line down 0.375 " (1 cm) to 24
From 3 draw line right ( waist / 2 ) + (1.75 " or 4.5 cm) to 25
From 21 draw line right 0.75 " (2 cm) to 33a
From 33a draw line up 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 33
From 33 draw line down 3.0 " (7.8 cm) to 34
At this point, IMHO, the vest draft is practically complete. The instructions that follow are exactly as they are in the original draft. I find them less useful, and much too difficult to understand, so I am including them verbatim if you want to entertain yourself and try to figure them out
! 26 and 27 from 22 equals 25 to 21 .
29 from 12 equals the full length of waistcoat less width of back neck plus 1 1/4 ins. for seams and making up.
29 from 28 equals 3/4 in.
30 from 26 equals 1 3/4 ins.
31 from 30 equals 3/4 in.
32 from 3 equals 2 1/4 ins.
Add 3/4 in. at 33 , 1 1/2 ins. above 21 and shape front edge down 3 ins. to 34 for the front edge.
Shape 1/4 in. out of the dart at front waist though pocket.
For backless waistcoat style, narrow the shoulder 3 ins. to 36 and make 37 from 6 equal 12 to 36 , 38 from O equals 1 3/4ins.
39 and 40 are each 1/2 in. from 6 and O .
Shape the front waistcoat and waist strap making width of strap 1 1/2 ins. at back and 2 1/4 ins. at the back sideseam and curving round to 30 and up to 36 as shown.
[ Updated: 00:02:05 CST 2020/12/03 ]