Drafting Men's Double-Breasted Waistcoat Pattern
![[Pic of waistcoat pattern draft.]](dbvest.gif)
Measurements needed (all measurements are taken with the person wearing shirt & vest):
- chest: taken at fullest part of chest.
- waist
- waist_length: taken at the middle of back, from base of shirt collar down to waistline.
- "Scale" is equal to 1/3 of chest plus 6 " (15.6 cm) : ( scale = ( ( chest / 3 ) + ( (6 " or 15.6 cm) ) ) )
From O (back of neck) draw line down ( scale / 2 ) to 1
From O draw line down ( waist_length + seam_allowance ) to 2
From 2 draw line right 1.0 " (2.6 cm) to 3
From O draw line down ( scale / 8 ) to 4
From O draw line right ( scale / 6 ) + (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) to 5
From 5 draw line up 1.0 " (2.6 cm) to 6
Shape O , 4 , past 1 , 3 , locating A on line 1 .
From A draw line right ( scale / 3 ) to 7
From 7 draw line right ( scale / 4 ) to 8
From 8 draw line right 2.25 " (5.85 cm) to 9
From A draw line right ( chest / 2 ) + (1.75 " or 4.55 cm) to 10
From 10 square down to locate 11 on line 2 .
From 7 move right 2 " (5.2 cm) to locate 12
Square from 4 and 12 to locate 13
14 and 15 are each 1/2 " (1.3 cm) above and below 13
From 9 move right ( scale / 6 ) + (1/2 " or 1.3 cm) to locate 16
From 16 draw line up ( scale / 2 ) - (1/2 " or 1.3 cm) to 17
From 14 move up line 14 - 6 3/4 " (2 cm) to 18
From 17 move left & down line 17 - 15 an amount equals to 6 - 18 to locate 19
From 19 move down 1/4 " (0.7 cm) to locate 20 .
From 9 draw line up 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 21
From 8 square down to line 2 to locate 22
From 11 draw line down 3 " (7.8 cm) to 23
From 3 draw line right ( waist / 2 ) + (1.75 " or 4.5 cm)
From 22 move right by ( 24 to 11 ) / 2 to locate 25
From 22 move left by ( 24 to 11 ) / 2 to locate 26
From 25 move down 2.5 " (6.5 cm) to locate 27
From 26 move down 3.25 " (7.8 cm) to locate 28
29 is 3 " (7.8 cm) from line 25 - 11 .
30 is 3.5 " (9 cm) from line 10 - 23 .
31 is 2.5 " (6.5 cm) from line 10 - 23 .
From 8 move down 1/2 " (1.3 cm) to locate 32
From 32 move down 3/8 " (1 cm) to locate 33 .
The next step is exactly as they are in the original draft. I think it means to "make a small dart at about 10 to shorten the lapel line a bit".
Take a small cut through lapel line at about 10 to keep the cross-over short.
[ Updated: 00:02:05 CST 2020/12/03 ]