Posts under ‘Tailoring’

“Chatelaine”

A chatelaine is “a set of short chains attached to a woman’s belt, used for carrying keys or other items.” (It also means “a woman in charge of a large house”, presumably because she’d be carrying a large cluster of keys etc.) I saw “Dior And I” at the Austin Gay and Lesbian Film Festival […]

Details, details, details

Often, it’s the the small details that separate a “home made” garment from the “Wow, you made that?!” garment. I would like to share a few details from my recent use of Dress Shop and from making a shirtdress recently. Dress Shop generates the pattern pieces for the collar such that the undercollar is slightly […]

Shirtdress in black, white, red tartan

As part of my process of refining my Dress Shop measurements set, I made another garment, this time, a shirtdress. The pattern used was “Dresses/Unfitted/Shirtdress” and is one of the Dress Shop Quick Start patterns, which is of course also included in the higher-end versions, Dress Shop Deluxe and Dress Shop Pro. I chose a […]

“Dress Shop” motorcycle jacket

I am continuing to explore using Dress Shop Pro to make my own patterns. My initial attempts at a few pairs of shorts were moderately successful. For best result, I should really have spent the time and effort to make a sloper and adjust my measurements set in Dress Shop. If you’re like me though, […]

Sewing machine presser foot as helping hand

A “helping hand” is not new in sewing, nor in many crafts, for that matter. For example, there exist antiques of the “bird’s beak” clamp. Similar devices exist in jewelry making, watchmaking and other tiny-scale crafts, such as fishing lure tying. I’m reasonably dextrous so I can manage manual tasks well. There are times though, […]

Pinning zippers?

When pinning zippers, do you pin parallel to the zipper tape, or at right angle to the zipper tape? Maybe it depends on your pinning habit. I always pin perpendicular to the stitching line and sew over the pins. (Cue rancorous sew-over-pins religious war here! 😆 ) I do that for several reasons. When several […]

Use shoe boxes to organize sewing notions

We all have different methods of storing our sewing stuff. Recently, a member of my local chapter of American Sewing Guild gave a presentation on how she organizes her sewing stuff. One approach that she and I share is storing items in boxes stacked on shelves. Her boxes are all uniform, labeled with their general […]

V-shaped hem slits

I’ve been asked to clarify/explain how I did the V-shaped slits in my Dress Shop shorts: The slit is basically a “lined” diamond shaped cut-out in the garment fabric. When folded in half along one of its axes, the diamond turns into a V shape. By locating the points of the diamond on the hem […]

Sewing and turning a spaghetti strap

There are a multitude of methods to make a spaghetti strap. One method calls for using needle and thread. I used to do this, but have never been happy with it because the thread has to be inserted near the end of the tube and the fabric tends to fray and the thread’s knot would […]

Where to position the needle when using invisible zipper foot?

Recently, I answered a question on patternreview.com about needle position when using an invisible zipper foot. I figure I would share my answer here as well. When using a zipper foot, the needle stays in the middle. You position one of the foot’s two grooves over the zipper teeth depending on which side of the […]