Posts under ‘Tailoring’

Avoid large garment pieces cut on the bias

Continuing with the bias thing from last week, here’s another tip on working with bias: avoid wide pattern pieces with bias garments. Warp and weft yarns can differ in both count and tension such that they will stretch differently. A wide pattern piece, such as the front of a dress, can end up skewed because […]

Cutting sleeves on the bias.

This Threads article describes a great tip by Denise Severson, a seamstress, alterations expert, and Association of Sewing and Design Professionals member, to add sleeve fullness attractively: cut sleeves on the bias. Besides a more attractive fit, sleeves cut on the bias fit more comfortably and allow a wider range of movement because fabrics almost […]

Ready made bias strips

This Thread article outlines the disassembly of menswear ties to be used as bias binding strips. What a great idea! Thrift stores are a great source of ties, not just because they’re economically priced, but also because the ties there likely as not have colors and patterns that one would not be caught dead in, […]

Rip-stop nylon is really rip-stop!

You know how you can sometimes tear fabrics by making a snip at the edge and tear along the grain? Well, I found out that “rip-stop nylon” is really rip-stop because it’s impossible to do the tear-instead-of-cut thing with it!

McCall’s 5619, rebooted!

Once upon a time, I made McCall’s 5619 from green and white floral cotton. I think the fabric may have been a home decor fabric. It does resemble a curtain! I look rather like Scarlet O’Hara in that dress . At best, the dress looks a little “school marm”-ish. My S.O. thinks I look like […]

Box pleat problem, and the fix

After I posted a patternreview.com review of my “pegged skirt” (pencil skirt), made with the Dress Shop pattern drafting application, I discovered that the box pleat turns out to be a bit problematic. It is not deep (wide) enough given its length so when I walk, the pleat “kicks” open in a rather unflattering way. […]

First time using Dress Shop!

I recently bought Dress Shop, a Windows-based pattern drafting application, by Livingsoft NW. It took quite a big leap of faith since both the Web site and the application look like they were designed in the mid-90s. I will be writing a review of Dress Shop soon. I started by making a “pegged skirt” i.e. a pencil […]

Vogue 8900

I made Vogue 8900: I went with a black/white striped cotton sateen from Fabric Mart, an on-line fabrics house. I played with the stripes to create a silhouette that minimizes width up top and adds width on the bottom: a halter-like orientation up top and horizontal stripes on the bottom. Matching the stripes was challenging […]

Another version of McCall’s 6953

After making more refinements based on previous iterations of McCall’s 6953, I made another version of McCall’s 6953. I used a cotton plaid flannel which would normally seem more suited to pajamas than dresses, but turns out to make a pretty comfy dress. I trim the dress in white cotton. When I tried on the […]

More red stuff!

Austin is not Rio de Janeiro, but we do have a Carnaval! It’s a huge samba dance party in the style of Brazilian carnavals, right down to the semi-nekkid, and quite inebriated 🙂 , people. It’s always a ton of fun: lots of hot people, lots of booze, lots of driving samba, all night long. […]

That’s pretty good mileage! :)

I’m getting great mileage out of my Vogue 2899 “bombshell” dress! 🙂 We were just in Vegas for my S.O.’s birthday and of course that was another chance to wear it. As I mentioned previously, the bodice, in size 10, was too short on me. I attempted to fix that by adding extra length at […]

Padding for ironing board

For the longest time, I marveled at the laundry shops’ ability to press shirts to a starched crisp glass-like finish, wishing I could do the same. It turns out that the reason I have failed to achieve the same wrinkle-free result was because my ironing board does not have sufficient padding. I don’t remember now […]

Vogue 8849

The other dress that I made for my S.O. for my company’s holiday party was Vogue 8849. I did not make any significant design changes. Design changes included: making the dress floor-length, a thigh-high slit in front of the left leg, and ending the back flounces at the side seams instead of continuing all the […]

Vogue 2899

My company’s holiday party this year had a theme of “James Bond 007”. The dress code was “cocktail, or as your favorite Bond character”. There was no question that I was going to be as slinky and sexy as possible. I aimed for Halle Berry’s character of “Dr. Jinx Johnson” in “Die Another Day”, specifically, […]

Halloween 2014

For Halloween this year, I went with stylized versions of Wizrad of Oz’s Dorothy for myself and Scarecrow for my S.O. They’re off the same design and construction, differing in fabrics and of course, sizing. The top part of the dress is Simplicity 3618 and for the skirt is Butterick 6049. The blouse is also […]

Beeswax and hand-sewing thread

So I recently discovered, after 30-plus years of sewing, that applying beeswax to thread before hand sewing virtually eliminates tangling. I also stumbled on the revelation that whenever I need to thread a needle for hand sewing, thread two needles at once, one to use right away and the other to be used the next […]

“Separating hidden zippers”!

I recently discovered that there is such a thing as a “separating hidden zipper“! (Image from The Zipper Lady blog.)

Reinforcing skirt’s slit

I reinforce skirt slit by sewing a small piece of ribbon across the top of the slit. This prevents the slit’s stitching from having to handle all the stress.

Alternate filling for pin cushion

I recently made a pin cushion for myself (after 30+ years of sewing!). I used Poly-Fil polyester fiber fill but found I could not stuff enough in to make a very firm pin cushion. As a result, the pin cushion does not “grip” pins well. It does hold pins, but pins as well as needles […]

Another version of McCall’s 6953

I made another version of the McCall’s 6953 dress, this time from an aqua/ivory/brown rayon/silk floral fabric. I bought the fabric on sale at fabricmart.com. I bought six yards of it for $2.0/yard. I still have almost two yards of it left so I will probably make at least one more garment from it! This […]