I recently bought Dress Shop, a Windows-based pattern drafting application, by Livingsoft NW. It took quite a big leap of faith since both the Web site and the application look like they were designed in the mid-90s. I will be writing a review of Dress Shop soon.
I started by making a “pegged skirt” i.e. a pencil skirt. The generated pattern looked a little suspect! The top of the back piece’s side seam had way too much curvature to possibly work:
But, I suspended my skepticism and went ahead making the skirt anyway. I was very surprised and impressed by the fit of the skirt. The skirt was a bit loose around the waist, but it was probably due to my not taking that measurement properly. (I’ll cover how I made “fitting slopers” in my review of Dress Shop.)
To spice up the skirt, I used remnants of a black-and-white striped fabric left over from making the Vogue 8900 dress and added slanted welted pockets on the side seams, and used the same fabric as backing for the front kick pleat. I did a chevron pattern in both places. I topstitched with white topstitching thread, using a #14 embroidery needle. The inverted V topstitching secures the top of the kick pleat and is also a design detail.
Originally, the kick pleat’s backing extended all the way down to the hem, but I did not make the pleat wide/deep enough so when I walk, the pleat pulls in a rather unflattering way. I remedied that by shortening the pleat’s backing, which gave the front pleat the look of a slit as well.
For closure, I used an invisible zipper. As an experiment, I positioned the zipper in the front instead of in the back. I am not going to do that again! I kept the waist area simple and just have a facing, no waistband. I lined the skirt but only down to the top of the pleat since I did not want to have to deal with figuring out how to line the kick pleat!